I wait for a new Bill Buford book! I still think of Dario Cecchini reading Dante-

"In the middle of the journey of our life, I came to myself, in a dark wood, where the direct way was lost. It is a hard thing to speak of, how wild, harsh and impenetrable that wood was, so that thinking of it recreates the fear. It is scarcely less bitter than death: but, in order to tell of the good that I found there, I must tell of the other things I saw there."
Dante, The Divine Comedy, Inferno

Best Surf Book Ever

"I went to Oaxaca to ride Puerto Escondido, which is generally considered the heaviest beachbreak in the world.I snapped two boards and came home with a perforated eardrum."

William Finnegan, Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life